Sunday, June 22, 2008

On to Xi'an...

Saturday (the 14th) we woke up early (seeing a pattern here) for the less than 2 hour flight to Xi'an from Beijing. We mostly slept on the flight still trying to recover from the Great Day at the Great Wall back on day 1. It was an hour taxi ride from the airport to our hotel within the Xi'an city walls. We checked in, and went out on foot to find a place to eat lunch. We thought there was a pizza place down the street, but ended up eating at the food court in the ginormous mall. It was an interesting collection of food items we sampled, mostly pretty good. Right next to our table, was a bumper car place. The kids really wanted to try it out, so who are we to deny a good time on vacation? (I must include a reminder that, similar to India, OSHA doesn't live here.) They all jumped into their own cars, sans seatbelts (or with very weak attempts) and proceeded to inflict all sorts of minor brain injuries on each other. On three separate occasions in the seemingly hour long ride, little D, bumped his head so hard as to scream out and cry. The worker dude would crawl into his car and comfort him until he stopped and then keep going. After the third one, which was pretty brutal - would have sent a lesser 6 year old to the hospital with whiplash - I exercised my motherly duty and stopped his car indicating he should get out of the car. He revolted through his sobbing and insisted he keep driving. What was I thinking? How dare I try to cut his ride shorter than everyone else's?
After bumper cars we started our trek to the cutest little shopping area called Shuyuanmen. I was a blustery, rainy day and we ended up buying 10 umbrellas for the walk, for ridiculously cheap. I really enjoyed the ambiance of this adorable area, despite the rain. It was full of art, souvenirs, and antiques. We made a quick stop at the Beilin museum - a museum of stone sculptures which were very impressive, and then began the death march back to the hotel.
For dinner, we ate at a Muslim restaurant, that specialized in a strange pork soupy, noodle concoction, that was served over flat bread we broke up into tiny pieces ourselves. It was probably our most interesting meal on this trip.
After dinner, Sara, Allison and I braved the very crowded night market across the street from the hotel. We figured out it was a fish/meat market by day, and a trinket, jewelry, fake bag market by night. It was very entertaining, and I'm discovering how much I enjoy the whole Asia market scene.

Beijing airport at 0'dark thirty in the morning.

Bumper cars - Action Z

D - before 3rd concussion

Live models in the window

Shuyuanmen - the fabulous cobbled shopping street


At the museum, very pretty gardens

Hide and seek in the historic hitching posts
Watchtower on the wall

Monk on the phone - Hello mom?"

D falling asleep at our interesting Muslim dinner

Creatures at the night market - goldfish, bunnies, turtles and lizards

City walls of Xi'an - these walls form a giant rectangle that is flat on top. We had originally planned to take a bike ride tour around the entire wall, but the rain prevented that. We were a little disappointed by that, but really enjoyed the rest of Xi'an.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

A Hutong Visit... or LIFE in China

This is one of the favorite things we've done so far on this trip. Jade met us at the designated spot and led us into a hutong familiar to her. For lack of a better word, they are the equivalent of a slum. As I have discovered over the past year in India, discovering real life, lived by real people is the most fascinating aspect of living overseas for me, and China was no different. It's nice to see the amazing historical sites, and amazing architectural feats, but it is real living that is the most interesting to me. We walked along one street where Jade's friend "Big brother Liu" lived to deliver her gift for the 100th day birthday of his child. Dave, Z, D and I were able to go in and see his humble home, one of many surrounding a quaint little courtyard. He generously invited us in and offered to feed us, but we were on our way to lunch so we declined and went on our way. B Little was engaged in a conversation about International affairs with several of the locals which was quite interesting, even considering our lack of language understanding. The rest of the walk was fabulous as we smiled and were smiled at many people who lived there, equally fascinated by the foreigners with so many children (7 kids between the 2 families).


Oh, look! Chinese Lanterns!

Dave, Ange, Z & D with Liu


A discussion on International Affairs

So very cute...

Playing Weiqi on the street

Home Sweet Home

Taking a tea break... it is customary to drink your tea here in Mason jars - YUM!

Beautified alley


It's all about the beads... baby.

Dave took some of the little kids back to the van while some of us continued on for another side street or two. In the meantime, he "chatted" with our hired driver, Liu Dong and a passerby about geography. And since Dave doesn't speak Chinese, and the driver and passerby didn't speak English or Hindi or Spanish, they resorted to more primitive means of communication...

A map of the World as drawn by Dave, Chinese characters by Liu Dong


The Globe - the discussion started on where we were from, and how to say that in Chinese.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

The Temple of Heaven

Friday we ventured out the the Temple of Heaven for a picnic and some more beautiful temples. It was a hot, humid day, and we were still trying to recover from our two very hectic previous days, but it was a low stress visit. The Temple of Heaven is a series of Taoist temples that date back to the early 1400s and includes building names like: The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, The Imperial Vault of Heaven, and the Circular Mound Altar where the Emperor would pray for favorable weather. We enjoyed a picnic, and took way too many pictures of the gorgeous buildings. D had the camera for awhile and took some surprisingly good photos, a few of which are on display here.

A cultural phenomenon in China, people will take their birds in their cages to the park and let them "hang out" with their friends, some even going so far as to tie their cages up in the trees. This guy here was just leaving, strapping his bird on the back of his bicycle.

B has been taking a Chinese calligraphy class. From the looks of it, he should be getting a very good grade. This is a brush dipped in water to "paint" on the sidewalk.

This is another interesting cultural tidbit. To aid in potty training, their toddlers wear these split pants with no diapers. When they are ready to go, they just squat (often with the help of Mom or Dad) where ever they are and take care of business. We actually spotted one at the Forbidden City taking care of some solid waste accumulation onto a piece of paper Mom had rustled up. It kind of put a damper on our appetites as we ate our ice cream.

As can often happen when many children hang out together, someone can feel left out. For these few minutes it was D. Poor guy! I couldn't help taking this picture... he was too cute.

These giant stone carvings were at several of the sites we saw, including the Forbidden City. To transport these ginormous rocks they built a network of wells spanning 70 km and would make a frozen highway to move the stones along. All these amazing feats were taking place during the Dark Ages of our familiar history. Eastern Asia doesn't seem to have had anything but success in their pursuit of advancement, at least without any serious setbacks. Impressive!

I love the colors combinations and textures of the structures here. It was similar at all the places we've visited to date. However, in 2005 $5.9 million was spent refurbishing The Temple of Heaven complex in preparation for the Olympics. You could tell, and appreciate, the freshly painted beauty here.

Little D took this awesome picture of competing roof shapes. It's one of my favorites.

Another gorgeous roof shot

Many doors in these structures had doors with these serious of knobs on them. 9 is the
Imperial number and it is, of course, good luck to rub them.

Another Little D photo

On our way out of the Temple complex, we passed through a beautiful garden
with this parting view.

Dave doing a celebratory leap, enjoying the Temple of Heaven...
the guy in the way background is also taking his picture.

Here is my cute boys who were getting along really well for these few minutes.

This was a great beginning to another great day in China. I can't stress enough how great it is to have the involvement of other "local" Scholars in planning and carrying out these travel plans. No travel agency could give us the experience we are getting by sharing this trip with other Scholars--again the best part of the program, in my humble opinion.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Can't Touch This...

Thursday we ventured to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, in Beijing. I was really surprised that there were absolutely no trees inside the gates. It was so barren and extremely hot. The reason... "wood conquers earth" and they didn't want to give any hiding places to potential assassins. Odd? You bet! So, photograph wise it made for not-so-pretty pictures. We really enjoyed being there, and as a treat, the very back part of the complex was a garden of sorts... WITH TREES!
Family Picture in front of the Forbidden City South Gate

Barren bleakness inside the city
Cool roof lines
Attention! Preparing for guard changing
Dave's watch broke, so he bought this one... Mao actually waves at you each second
Group shot
Backside of the South Gate
South Gate as we exited

Couples tree - the legend says that an Emperor loved this concubine who was married, he killed off the husband. When she died, she and her husband were buried in separate coffins to keep them apart forever. The trees grew up over the coffins and then grew together... how sweet!
Beautiful buildings in the garden areas - it's amazing the difference a few trees can make

So totally appropriate - I love this photo!
View down a side street

This was another amazing adventure in our amazing adventure. After the Forbidden City we took the subway to get some lunch and then headed back to Jade's house where we dropped the kids and B off and went with Jade to this awesome foot rub place. I believe all four of us actually lost consciousness for a few minutes because it was so relaxing. We all realized how much lactic acid we had accumulated the day before at the Great Wall when they kneaded our calves, causing extreme pain. That evening for dinner we met at a great courtyard restaurant with Jade, Phoenix and Jenn, other Olmsted Scholars in Beijing (OSC '06, OSC '08, OSC '07). There is another Scholar there that we missed in our visit, (bummer) but it was great to hang out with such great people and of their experiences.
After dinner we walked down some little streets with some very cute, chic boutiques. I love the Chinese red lanterns that were everywhere. It was another fabulous day... Up next The Temple of Heaven, the Qian Men (A hutong area) and Chinese Acrobats!

Comments from the Peanut Gallery... this means YOU!

If you have stayed tune in hopes for daily blogging of our adventures in China, thanks... however, due to the insanity of our incredible itinerary I am finding my energy for blogging is almost non-existent. I have way too many pictures to sort through, and way too many details to skip over that I am not doing justice to the sites that we see. So, for my readership (Mom?) comment and let me know what you would like...
  1. more of the same... very little commentary and a few pictures with more extensive on the family website after we get home.
  2. fewer but more detailed posts of the "big ticket" sites and cover the rest when we get home.
  3. give up completely because no one reads your blog anyway!
So, if I receive any comments I will try to keep up with this blogging. I'll confess, I've been saving the best photos for better coverage, i.e. when I get home, but just FYI... we took almost 800 pictures on our first day in Beijing.

Let me just say that we are having the adventure of a lifetime with some great friends. Never in my wildest dreams did I ever imagine I'd be traveling to China, and seeing so many of the amazing sites it has to offer. It has such a rich, and ancient culture that it seems they are still trying to discover and appreciate themselves. I know I say this all the time, but someone needs to pinch me to make sure I'm not dreaming this crazy life. It's been a joy to spend time with other Scholars and toast Gen. Olmsted's vision and generosity at our dinners together. What an incredible blessing this has been in our life. We will never be the same.