Lending a Hand - सहायता करना

This last weekend I joined with our church youth group to tackle a very worthwhile and rewarding project. We journeyed about a hour east of town into neighboring Noida to the Saikripa Orphanage to help them prepare for an exicting and momentous event - a wedding! Actually it will be two weddings for girls that were raised by "Autny Anjina" (as she is known by all of her children) who are now adults leading productive lives. They were in need of help to beautify the otherwise gloomy and run-down rooms where the little girls live. The weddings will be held in these same rooms, so we came to do our best to make them look good.

हम अनाथालाये को गाये और उसके दीवारों पर रंग किया. दो लेर्कियाँ थोड़े समय पर शादी शुदा होंगीं - उनके लिए इतने अदभूत होगी !

It was hot, sticky, and crowded, but the kids were in great spirits. The walls had to be sanded first, and then the dust had to be removed as best we could. We prepped the rooms for painting and got down to work painting a pretty pink picked out by Aunty. About half way through the job we were running out of paint, so I took a few of the boys and we headed to the nearby market to get more. It was tough to find the right paint and color, but I was able to use my Hindi to work out the details. It felt good to put some language skill to practical, hands-on use on the street!

It was humbling to see what few possessions these little girls had. At the same time, it was very reassuring to me that there are many good people in India working in a devoted way to tackle the poverty and suffering that is so wide spread here. It was a great experience for my son Z and I to join with local Indian kids and work with them to improve their community. There were a couple other Ex-pat kids (of our friends the Seiperts, who live at the embassy), and after spending the day sweating it out together, we had some great chats reflecting on the privileges we take for granted in America. We will definately make this type of service a regular part of our plans. It may not make much difference in the big scheme of things, but it feels great to accomplish a few small things that bring big smiles.

ये काम करके, हम जानते हैं कि हमारे जीवन मे भुत अशिशे हैं.

Golfing in Delhi: Contrast in Culture

This week I had the opportunity to do what I did not expect to while in India - spend an afternoon golfing. I am not an avid golfer, but I did bring my clubs to India - more of a default occurrence than a conscious choice. Still, through an unlikely connection - a fellow named Siddarth that I met at our church recently - I was invited and graciously accepted. He is a great guy from a wealthy business family, and up until recently, an aspiring amateur/pro golfer (and he had a mean game!) It is hard to imagine a more stark contrast than to step off the streets of Delhi and on to the green paradise that is the Delhi Country Club. It may not be as immaculate as some exclusive clubs in the US, but it is very beautiful in its own right. It even has a few small Moghul-era (~500 years old) monuments on the course - something you won't find back in the States.

The course was also a haven for wild Peacocks, who routinely wandered across the greens and fairways, oblivious or even welcoming of our presence. The club house was filled with the well-heeled and well-connected of Delhi. Siddarth is a well-known fellow at the club, and one of his regular golfing friends spontaneously joined us for 9 holes. We had great caddies, with whom I spoke Hindi (making fast-friends). However when I spoke Hindi to my fellow golfers or club members, they complimented me politely but spoke to me only in English. They spoke to the caddies and course employees in Hindi, but to me - always in English. It is another example of the wide social and economic divides that exist in modern India, and the status indicator that speaking English represents in the upper classes.


I enjoyed my time on the links immensely (who wouldn't?), but after leaving the walled-in haven behind and returning to the streets and the pervasive poverty, the complexities and disparities of Indian culture seemed even more stark. I am coming to realize the profound insight in the oft-quoted phrase of the famous Cambridge Economist Joan Robinson: "Whatever you can rightly say about India, the opposite is also true."

हुमायूँ का मकबरा - Humayun's Tomb

We took an afternoon to see Humayun's Tomb, one of Delhi's best kept and popular historic sights. We spent about two hours wandering the grounds where the second Mughal Emporer was buried, in a magnificent tomb constructed by his widow Haji Begum. It preceded the Taj Mahal by almost a hundred years, and is the first in a succession of grand Mughal structures that testify to the vision of the Emporers of that period. It is a great sight to see before going to Agra, as you can get a great feel for how this structure influenced the Taj and many later monuments.

The complex has several monuments and tombs besides that of Humayun. Near the entrance is the tomb of Isa Khan, one of the nobles of Sher Shah Sur (a compeditor to Humayun and the Mughal Dynasty). Just outside the gate to Humayun's garden we climbed on the ruins of Arab ki Sarai, where the artisans and laborers originally dwelled.

We were fortunate to have some rain to bring the temperatures down, and we really enjoyed the well-kept grounds and wildlife. The call of peacocks and their occasional sighting added some authenticity to the Mughal paradise-garden scene. The complex has recently undergone extensive restoration and improvement, including running water in the fountains and channels of the tomb garden plaza. One gets a sense of the grandeur of the Mughals and the permanence of their legacy in India, considering that the complex was built in 1565 AD. It is a must-visit for all who come to see us, especially since it is very close and easily accessed. We didn't take the kids this time (maybe that's why it was so serene...) but this is a great place for them to run around and even climb the stairs to get a view from above. Awesome!

मेरी दिल कि रानी - Queen of my heart

अंगेला मेरी दिल कि रानी हैं - इतनी खूबसुरत हैं! अंगेला ने काई नए सरियां खरीदीं, और पहनकर च्रुच गयी। सुब लोगों को बहुट आचा लुगता था!

This week Angela really had a great week - especially from where I'm standing - and I have to sing her praises. It has been a rollercoaster ride and a real struggle getting a family set up and functioning in India, and I know she has had some pretty bad days this last month. But she persisted with the courage and determination that I have always admired her for. She has been driving the car by herself (maybe not everywhere, but nonetheless braving traffic, stick shifting, and staying on the "wrong" side of the road), signed up for Hindi classes, and got her long-awaited LASIK operation. She did her LASIK homework and found a place well-recommended by many expat friends. But the idea was always terrifiying to have the procedure done, even in America much less in a foreign land! She had a rough first night but everything turned out, I should say...beautifully!

Speaking of beautiful, you should see "the queen of my heart" in her new saris. She is stunning! She shopped with our cook, Manjula, and found great fabric at a great local price. She figured out how to put them on, and decided to wear one to church this morning. Wow! I didn't know when I came to India that I would be married to a Bollywood Bombshell! Enough of my babbling, see for yourself...

First Trip to see “The Taj”

With our time in India seeming to fly by (in some respects) we decided that we absolutely must go to see the great wonder of the modern world in Agra, the Taj Mahal. Our schedule did not have much to offer but we decided it would be worth our time on a Saturday to make a quick trip to familiarize ourselves with this most famous monument and its environs (and most likely location we will see in the next 2 years). We joined with our good friends, the Seiperts, who are likewise new in Delhi. Together with my driver Baldev, we secured a great vehicle for them at about 30-50% of what the travel agencies were asking – it helps to know and befriend the locals

We awoke early on Saturday, and were on NH-2 (the highway to Agra) by 5 AM. This was a good plan because our drive was just under 2.5 hours, beating the majority of traffic snarls that are inevitable on this popular route. We ended up sleeping in the car (especially the kids), but morning is a great time to “people watch” in India. We saw elephants, monkeys (both wild and tamed-performing types), camel cart convoys, overstuffed rickshaws, and hyper-stuffed farm trucks, to name a few.

Our driver Baldev (who has done this trip dozens of times) also arranged for a family friend who was a licensed Taj tour guide to meet us and take us in and around the complex. His name was Noor, and he gave us great insights on our first-ever visit. We started off with a camel-wagon ride from the parking area to the Taj complex, about a 1.5 km ride. I managed to use a combination of native tongue and “market forces” (there were 3 camel-jockeys waiting for riders) to get their exorbitant asking rate down, and if it weren’t so darned hot it would've been even better – but I decided to just pay the heat dividend and get the show on the road! As we left the camel yard there were hordes of touts and bicycle rickshaw drivers and junk-peddlers around us, and I was able to use some Hindi to convince the majority to leave us alone – although sometimes nothing works as well as an aggravated, terse proclamation of “Enough!” – which translates universally.
The camel ride was fun for the kids, and when we got to the Taj, we showed our Dip IDs to get a huge discount on admission. It was only 20 Rs each (kids under 15 are free), but without these it is about 800 Rs each (about 20 USD)! Again, basic economics – any foreigner who comes all the way to the Taj is going to shell out whatever is asked. The security line was quick for the guys, but painfully slow for all females. Again, we benefited greatly from an early arrival, although from the beginning is was apparent the season was not going to make it any more fun. We could have picked a hotter day to visit, perhaps in a few billion years when our solar system’s sun finally goes super-nova. Seriously, we were wilting from the intense heat and humidity! Remember to bring umbrellas if you try seeing sights in July and August, if not for monsoon rains, they are very handy mobile shade.

The Taj Mahal was truly spectacular. Despite coming at about the worst time of the year, and semi-rushing our experience (which in hindsight was good gauging how heat-stroked we felt when we left), we were still awed by the beauty of the structure, its setting, and the bits of history we learned from Noor. Built by Shah Jahan over 22 years (finished in 1653) in remembrance of his most beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, the Shah joined his wife in burial there after being dethroned and imprisoned by his own son shortly after its completion. We won’t spoil all the neat “little things” we learned about the Taj, but save them so we can share them when you come to visit (how’s that for a teaser?). But needless to say the symmetry of the entire complex, the grand scale of the craftsmanship and inlay work, and the overlook of the Yamuna River from the back (north) side of the portico were all permanently impressed on our minds. It is a place we will not mind going back to again and again – especially when the weather is better!

After capturing a slew of photos, we made our escape (again on camel cart) and headed to a restaurant to recharge our near-exhaustion with fluids and (hopefully) good food. We found both in a great little restaurant where we ordered three big platters of tandoori chicken, subzi (vegetables), murg makhani (butter chicken), rice, naan, and spiced meat kabobs. Yum! We all dug in and enjoyed a feast while listening to a great trio of musicians perform in our restaurant. The star was a small boy with a flair for singing, dancing, and performing for the guests – getting B out of her chair and joining him in Bollywood-esque gyrations! It was a great battery re-charger.

We left Agra to return to Delhi (Agra Fort was closed for Army drills, something we didn’t learn until we were leaving the Taj) and decided to stop at Akbar’s tomb in Sikandra. Akbar was the son of Humayun (the 2nd Mughal emporer – his famous tomb is a must see in Delhi), and this complex is not as well maintained as the Taj, but is impressive in its own right. Akbar’s mausoleum is a simple chamber at the heart of the main structure without decorations on the walls or crypt (at his request), but with specially designed acoustics that are interesting. The building is surrounded by a huge charbagh, or paradise garden, which is mostly overgrown now but still has a large herd of antelope and a roving band of frolicking monkeys. After about 40 minutes in more blistering heat (and dealing with irritating shoe-tenders and “guides” trying to get us to cough up rupees for their “help”) we had to call it quits, but we were glad to see and experience these Agra basics. On the way home our Toyota’s A/C gradually lost its charge, making a long, hot day, even hotter. We switched the girls into the rented car and Baldev and I rode home with most of the younger kids. The drive home was over 4 hours! Traffic is horrendous, and at times just unavoidable, so we took pictures, practiced our Hindi, or tried to sleep. We made it back as the sun went down in Delhi, grateful to be back in our cool, dry home. Although we will be back many times, and in better circumstances, we will always remember our first visit to the Taj Mahal.

Rat-a-toi-tee and the crumbling mansion

WARNING!! NOT FOR THOSE OF WEAK CONSTITUTION!!!

Moving to India and setting up our home has definately had its challenges. But we got off to a great start by moving right into a spacious and well-equipped home in a perfect location in Delhi between the kids school and JNU. We also were very blessed to have a super driver, an awesome cook, and a GREAT car. We took a great trip to the mountains, and saw several great sights in Delhi.

Then our household goods came with extensive water damage. We recovered the best we could, but it will take time to file a claim and replace or acquire belongings we need. The famed monsoon season of India then suddenly began, and we discovered that our heretofore magnificent house was not exactly waterproof. After 3 days of rain, the walls started oozing, dripping, crumbling, and bubbling. First it was the living room and Zac's room, then it was the stairwell. Then it was in the Master bedroom, followed by the girls room. Finally water seepage appeared in Daniel's room, making it a virtual "splash dunk" - every part of the house was leaking!!!

I went into the housing maintenance office to explain that our previously sporadic calls about water damage had gone to a whole new level. They said it is not uncommon to have these issues arise, especially with a new rental unit in its first monsoon season. They promised to engage a big effort to examing the roof and get ahead of the problem. The work is underway...

Then just last night Zac comes down stairs and says, "Dad...can you come with me?" I was sitting with Ange and when I glanced at him, he silently starts waving his hands and shaking his head while mouthing "don't get Mom!" I was too tired to play what I thought was a joke on his part so I said " OK Zac, just tell us what's up." Well, I should have listened, because he said "I think there's a rat in my toilet." WHAT?!?!? "Surely you must be kidding" I said. Ange went stiff and became instantly wigged out, so up I went with Zac to see what was in his bowl.

Sure enough, it was a RAT. After determining that it was stuck there and could not climb out (too slippery), I asked and learned that Zac had lifted the seat to find it there - meaning that the seat had been down all day - meaning that the Rat had only one way of getting there - meaning...I KID YOU NOT...that rat climbed up THROUGH THE SEWER and into the toilet. Now this is no easy feat as Zac's room is on the top floor which is the 3rd story.

We tried to flush it back down, but the flush didn't have enough thrust to push it through, so we came up with a somewhat inhumane but expedient plan. After snapping a few pictures, I dumped about a liter of Clorox bleach on the bugger, closed the seat, and waited for 20 minutes. That did the trick of both sanitizing the bowl and killing the rodent (and bleaching it white). We then dumped a large bucket of water in to manually and decisively purge the beasty, sending it back where it came from. Hopefully the rest of them will see and take note that such adventurism will gain them NOTHING in our tidy home!

In any case, we keep our toilet lids down, bowls flushed, and always execute a quick check before using them for their intended purpose. My guess is that this was quite isolated and will not happen again...EVER!!!!

Gandhi Memorials - "My Life is my Message"

Several days ago we ventured into Delhi to visit the memorials of the Father of the Indian Nation and one of the most important men in both Indian and World history: Mohandas K. Gandhi. We normally hear Gandhi referred to as "Mahatma," a title that means "Great Soul." He was also known affectionately among his people as "Bapu," which simply means father. Together with our good friends, Richard and Kelly Seipert, we took our children to visit both the Rajghat ( राजघाट - Gandhi's final resting place) and Gandhi Smriti (गाँधी स्मृति - where Gandhi lived the last few months before he was assassinated).

RAJGHAT

East of downtown Delhi, near the banks of the Yamuna River, is a peaceful and beautiful memorial that marks the spot of Gandhi's cremation on 31 January 1948. An eternal flame burns here, much like JFK's memorial at Arlington Cemetery, and all who approach the simple marble platform that marks the spot of his final rest remove their shoes in respect. It has become custom for visiting heads of state to visit the Rajghat and pay their respects to the man who led India to freedom through peaceful, non-violent resistance.

We visited on a day where the heat and humidity were almost unbearable, and if we weren't so oppressed by the temperature, we would have stayed much longer. Still there was a very peaceful and reflective feeling about Rajghat, and it is a site we will suggest to all who visit us here in Delhi.

GANDHI SMRITI

After Raghat, we ventured back toward central Delhi to Gandhi Smriti, which means "Gandhi Remembrance." It was also known as Birla House as it was an estate of the wealthy Birla Family, business tycoons who were close friends and supporters of the Mahatma. This is the site where Gandhi lived for the last few months of his life, and the site of his assassination. The Indian Government acquired the property in 1971 and subsequently made it a memorial and museum devoted to Gandhi's life and teachings.

For me this was an even more hallowed spot than Rajghat. Although my knowledge about his life and the circumstances of his death are quite superficial, I could not help but feel the importance of this humble man and his grasp of universally true principles. So many of the basic truths I believe were reflected in the various teachings of Gandhi displayed on the grounds and displays. Most significant of all was the authority lent by the simple example of his life. My most memorable experience was pausing outside his bedroom in the Birla House and looking up to read: " मेरा जीवन ही मेरा संदेश है (My life is my message)." A translated sign is displayed on the opposing wall, but I had not seen it yet. This is a simple Hindi phrase, so its meaning was clear to me as I read it. But it seemed much more meaningful since I was able to read it in the language he originally spoke it.

The children could feel that it was a place that warranted great respect, and they keep very quiet and well behaved on their own accord while we followed the path he walked the day he died. This way is marked by raised sandstone tiles in the shape of footsteps from Birla House to the garden lawn where he was shot in broad view of hundreds of followers and admirers.

This terrible act was perpetrated by Nathuram Godse, a Hindu nationalist who apparently viewed Gandhi as responsible for influencing the fulfillment of a promised money exchange from India to Pakistan as a part of the terms of the Indo-Pak partition. Gandhi had decided to fast until India lived up to its word in the already contentious agreement, and it was obviously interpreted by some in the Hindu Mahasabha in zero-sum terms as "their gain = our loss." Although disputed, he seemingly acted alone.

I'm sure the historical analysis frames the details in clear and logical terms, but I still do not understand why anyone would kill this old, frail man who literally owned nothing. His interest appeared to be the freedom and peace of his nation. I concluded that someone who not only understood so much truth, but also embodied and exemplified it, had inherently acquired great power. Like few others in history, he wielded that power to liberate others and kept virtually none for himself. Perhaps forces that benefited from denying others their liberties saw him as a threat. Or maybe they hated so much that even second-hand hatred was enough reason to kill. Just like the forces that combined to crucify Christ, it seems to be pure evil against pure good, and pure madness to me.

Gandhi's legacy could not be killed by one man with a gun, or even by the ongoing conflict between India and Pakistan that troubled him so much. We learned a lot about the man, and definitely gained a deeper appreciation for his character and accomplishments. Come visit us, and we will add this visit to our list of must-dos in India!