First Trip to see “The Taj”

With our time in India seeming to fly by (in some respects) we decided that we absolutely must go to see the great wonder of the modern world in Agra, the Taj Mahal. Our schedule did not have much to offer but we decided it would be worth our time on a Saturday to make a quick trip to familiarize ourselves with this most famous monument and its environs (and most likely location we will see in the next 2 years). We joined with our good friends, the Seiperts, who are likewise new in Delhi. Together with my driver Baldev, we secured a great vehicle for them at about 30-50% of what the travel agencies were asking – it helps to know and befriend the locals

We awoke early on Saturday, and were on NH-2 (the highway to Agra) by 5 AM. This was a good plan because our drive was just under 2.5 hours, beating the majority of traffic snarls that are inevitable on this popular route. We ended up sleeping in the car (especially the kids), but morning is a great time to “people watch” in India. We saw elephants, monkeys (both wild and tamed-performing types), camel cart convoys, overstuffed rickshaws, and hyper-stuffed farm trucks, to name a few.

Our driver Baldev (who has done this trip dozens of times) also arranged for a family friend who was a licensed Taj tour guide to meet us and take us in and around the complex. His name was Noor, and he gave us great insights on our first-ever visit. We started off with a camel-wagon ride from the parking area to the Taj complex, about a 1.5 km ride. I managed to use a combination of native tongue and “market forces” (there were 3 camel-jockeys waiting for riders) to get their exorbitant asking rate down, and if it weren’t so darned hot it would've been even better – but I decided to just pay the heat dividend and get the show on the road! As we left the camel yard there were hordes of touts and bicycle rickshaw drivers and junk-peddlers around us, and I was able to use some Hindi to convince the majority to leave us alone – although sometimes nothing works as well as an aggravated, terse proclamation of “Enough!” – which translates universally.
The camel ride was fun for the kids, and when we got to the Taj, we showed our Dip IDs to get a huge discount on admission. It was only 20 Rs each (kids under 15 are free), but without these it is about 800 Rs each (about 20 USD)! Again, basic economics – any foreigner who comes all the way to the Taj is going to shell out whatever is asked. The security line was quick for the guys, but painfully slow for all females. Again, we benefited greatly from an early arrival, although from the beginning is was apparent the season was not going to make it any more fun. We could have picked a hotter day to visit, perhaps in a few billion years when our solar system’s sun finally goes super-nova. Seriously, we were wilting from the intense heat and humidity! Remember to bring umbrellas if you try seeing sights in July and August, if not for monsoon rains, they are very handy mobile shade.

The Taj Mahal was truly spectacular. Despite coming at about the worst time of the year, and semi-rushing our experience (which in hindsight was good gauging how heat-stroked we felt when we left), we were still awed by the beauty of the structure, its setting, and the bits of history we learned from Noor. Built by Shah Jahan over 22 years (finished in 1653) in remembrance of his most beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, the Shah joined his wife in burial there after being dethroned and imprisoned by his own son shortly after its completion. We won’t spoil all the neat “little things” we learned about the Taj, but save them so we can share them when you come to visit (how’s that for a teaser?). But needless to say the symmetry of the entire complex, the grand scale of the craftsmanship and inlay work, and the overlook of the Yamuna River from the back (north) side of the portico were all permanently impressed on our minds. It is a place we will not mind going back to again and again – especially when the weather is better!

After capturing a slew of photos, we made our escape (again on camel cart) and headed to a restaurant to recharge our near-exhaustion with fluids and (hopefully) good food. We found both in a great little restaurant where we ordered three big platters of tandoori chicken, subzi (vegetables), murg makhani (butter chicken), rice, naan, and spiced meat kabobs. Yum! We all dug in and enjoyed a feast while listening to a great trio of musicians perform in our restaurant. The star was a small boy with a flair for singing, dancing, and performing for the guests – getting B out of her chair and joining him in Bollywood-esque gyrations! It was a great battery re-charger.

We left Agra to return to Delhi (Agra Fort was closed for Army drills, something we didn’t learn until we were leaving the Taj) and decided to stop at Akbar’s tomb in Sikandra. Akbar was the son of Humayun (the 2nd Mughal emporer – his famous tomb is a must see in Delhi), and this complex is not as well maintained as the Taj, but is impressive in its own right. Akbar’s mausoleum is a simple chamber at the heart of the main structure without decorations on the walls or crypt (at his request), but with specially designed acoustics that are interesting. The building is surrounded by a huge charbagh, or paradise garden, which is mostly overgrown now but still has a large herd of antelope and a roving band of frolicking monkeys. After about 40 minutes in more blistering heat (and dealing with irritating shoe-tenders and “guides” trying to get us to cough up rupees for their “help”) we had to call it quits, but we were glad to see and experience these Agra basics. On the way home our Toyota’s A/C gradually lost its charge, making a long, hot day, even hotter. We switched the girls into the rented car and Baldev and I rode home with most of the younger kids. The drive home was over 4 hours! Traffic is horrendous, and at times just unavoidable, so we took pictures, practiced our Hindi, or tried to sleep. We made it back as the sun went down in Delhi, grateful to be back in our cool, dry home. Although we will be back many times, and in better circumstances, we will always remember our first visit to the Taj Mahal.

Rat-a-toi-tee and the crumbling mansion

WARNING!! NOT FOR THOSE OF WEAK CONSTITUTION!!!

Moving to India and setting up our home has definately had its challenges. But we got off to a great start by moving right into a spacious and well-equipped home in a perfect location in Delhi between the kids school and JNU. We also were very blessed to have a super driver, an awesome cook, and a GREAT car. We took a great trip to the mountains, and saw several great sights in Delhi.

Then our household goods came with extensive water damage. We recovered the best we could, but it will take time to file a claim and replace or acquire belongings we need. The famed monsoon season of India then suddenly began, and we discovered that our heretofore magnificent house was not exactly waterproof. After 3 days of rain, the walls started oozing, dripping, crumbling, and bubbling. First it was the living room and Zac's room, then it was the stairwell. Then it was in the Master bedroom, followed by the girls room. Finally water seepage appeared in Daniel's room, making it a virtual "splash dunk" - every part of the house was leaking!!!

I went into the housing maintenance office to explain that our previously sporadic calls about water damage had gone to a whole new level. They said it is not uncommon to have these issues arise, especially with a new rental unit in its first monsoon season. They promised to engage a big effort to examing the roof and get ahead of the problem. The work is underway...

Then just last night Zac comes down stairs and says, "Dad...can you come with me?" I was sitting with Ange and when I glanced at him, he silently starts waving his hands and shaking his head while mouthing "don't get Mom!" I was too tired to play what I thought was a joke on his part so I said " OK Zac, just tell us what's up." Well, I should have listened, because he said "I think there's a rat in my toilet." WHAT?!?!? "Surely you must be kidding" I said. Ange went stiff and became instantly wigged out, so up I went with Zac to see what was in his bowl.

Sure enough, it was a RAT. After determining that it was stuck there and could not climb out (too slippery), I asked and learned that Zac had lifted the seat to find it there - meaning that the seat had been down all day - meaning that the Rat had only one way of getting there - meaning...I KID YOU NOT...that rat climbed up THROUGH THE SEWER and into the toilet. Now this is no easy feat as Zac's room is on the top floor which is the 3rd story.

We tried to flush it back down, but the flush didn't have enough thrust to push it through, so we came up with a somewhat inhumane but expedient plan. After snapping a few pictures, I dumped about a liter of Clorox bleach on the bugger, closed the seat, and waited for 20 minutes. That did the trick of both sanitizing the bowl and killing the rodent (and bleaching it white). We then dumped a large bucket of water in to manually and decisively purge the beasty, sending it back where it came from. Hopefully the rest of them will see and take note that such adventurism will gain them NOTHING in our tidy home!

In any case, we keep our toilet lids down, bowls flushed, and always execute a quick check before using them for their intended purpose. My guess is that this was quite isolated and will not happen again...EVER!!!!

Gandhi Memorials - "My Life is my Message"

Several days ago we ventured into Delhi to visit the memorials of the Father of the Indian Nation and one of the most important men in both Indian and World history: Mohandas K. Gandhi. We normally hear Gandhi referred to as "Mahatma," a title that means "Great Soul." He was also known affectionately among his people as "Bapu," which simply means father. Together with our good friends, Richard and Kelly Seipert, we took our children to visit both the Rajghat ( राजघाट - Gandhi's final resting place) and Gandhi Smriti (गाँधी स्मृति - where Gandhi lived the last few months before he was assassinated).

RAJGHAT

East of downtown Delhi, near the banks of the Yamuna River, is a peaceful and beautiful memorial that marks the spot of Gandhi's cremation on 31 January 1948. An eternal flame burns here, much like JFK's memorial at Arlington Cemetery, and all who approach the simple marble platform that marks the spot of his final rest remove their shoes in respect. It has become custom for visiting heads of state to visit the Rajghat and pay their respects to the man who led India to freedom through peaceful, non-violent resistance.

We visited on a day where the heat and humidity were almost unbearable, and if we weren't so oppressed by the temperature, we would have stayed much longer. Still there was a very peaceful and reflective feeling about Rajghat, and it is a site we will suggest to all who visit us here in Delhi.

GANDHI SMRITI

After Raghat, we ventured back toward central Delhi to Gandhi Smriti, which means "Gandhi Remembrance." It was also known as Birla House as it was an estate of the wealthy Birla Family, business tycoons who were close friends and supporters of the Mahatma. This is the site where Gandhi lived for the last few months of his life, and the site of his assassination. The Indian Government acquired the property in 1971 and subsequently made it a memorial and museum devoted to Gandhi's life and teachings.

For me this was an even more hallowed spot than Rajghat. Although my knowledge about his life and the circumstances of his death are quite superficial, I could not help but feel the importance of this humble man and his grasp of universally true principles. So many of the basic truths I believe were reflected in the various teachings of Gandhi displayed on the grounds and displays. Most significant of all was the authority lent by the simple example of his life. My most memorable experience was pausing outside his bedroom in the Birla House and looking up to read: " मेरा जीवन ही मेरा संदेश है (My life is my message)." A translated sign is displayed on the opposing wall, but I had not seen it yet. This is a simple Hindi phrase, so its meaning was clear to me as I read it. But it seemed much more meaningful since I was able to read it in the language he originally spoke it.

The children could feel that it was a place that warranted great respect, and they keep very quiet and well behaved on their own accord while we followed the path he walked the day he died. This way is marked by raised sandstone tiles in the shape of footsteps from Birla House to the garden lawn where he was shot in broad view of hundreds of followers and admirers.

This terrible act was perpetrated by Nathuram Godse, a Hindu nationalist who apparently viewed Gandhi as responsible for influencing the fulfillment of a promised money exchange from India to Pakistan as a part of the terms of the Indo-Pak partition. Gandhi had decided to fast until India lived up to its word in the already contentious agreement, and it was obviously interpreted by some in the Hindu Mahasabha in zero-sum terms as "their gain = our loss." Although disputed, he seemingly acted alone.

I'm sure the historical analysis frames the details in clear and logical terms, but I still do not understand why anyone would kill this old, frail man who literally owned nothing. His interest appeared to be the freedom and peace of his nation. I concluded that someone who not only understood so much truth, but also embodied and exemplified it, had inherently acquired great power. Like few others in history, he wielded that power to liberate others and kept virtually none for himself. Perhaps forces that benefited from denying others their liberties saw him as a threat. Or maybe they hated so much that even second-hand hatred was enough reason to kill. Just like the forces that combined to crucify Christ, it seems to be pure evil against pure good, and pure madness to me.

Gandhi's legacy could not be killed by one man with a gun, or even by the ongoing conflict between India and Pakistan that troubled him so much. We learned a lot about the man, and definitely gained a deeper appreciation for his character and accomplishments. Come visit us, and we will add this visit to our list of must-dos in India!

Gross Negligence...Empasis on GROSS

Today after much angst and stress waiting for our long-lost household goods, they finally came (at least part of them). It was a COMPLETE DISASTER. We are basically flood vicitms. Out of our 12 shipping containers, 11 showed up, and fully half of them had water POURING out of them. The water damage was truly shocking - it was definitely negligent and borderline criminal. We are too exhausted to fully recount it tonight, and we don't even know the extent of it yet as we finally resorted to turning our ground floor living and dining area into a furniture triage area. To cap it all - our great big sofa showed up with an entire ANT COLONY flourishing amid the mold-rotted cushions! The pictures and blow up of one of the creases say it all.


We did lose a few things that are irreplaceable, which has been tough to deal with and shaken whatever semblance of faith we had in the government-contractor system of goods shipment. The rest we will just have to fight for reimbursement to replace. We have each other, our health, and a multitude of blessings from God - things that really matter. Now I feel better - time for bed. Watch Ange's blog for the rest of the gory details later.

Welcome to the Himalayas!

पंच दिनों के लिए हम हिमाचल प्रदेश में गुमते थे। इतने सुन्दर था - पहार अद्बुत थे !


This week we completed our first "explore India" trip together as a family. We spent five days in Himachal Pradesh, the North Indian state between Kashmir and Tibet, enjoying the beauties of the Great Himalayan Mountains. We hoped to extend the trip over 10 days, but we experienced some stomach problems and just wore ourselves out! Still, we saw and experienced things we will never forget, individually or as a family. Follow the link to our family website where we have posted the travel log and our copious (albiet amateur) photos. Now we are preparing to get our household goods, finish organizing our home, and start school at JNU next week!

Our Himalayan Adventure: http://www.mcillecefamily.org/himachal.htm

Himalayas, here we come!

To all family and friends:

We are departing in the morning on our first cross-India adventure! It will be into the mighty Himalayas in the north Indian state of Himachal Pradesh (see map below). We hope to connect via email while on the road, but there are no guarantees until we return (in about 10 days). We will post our pictures and notes of this experience as soon as we get back - फिर में लेंगे (see you soon)!

Akshardham Complex in Delhi

इतने अद्भुट था! अक्षरधाम मंदिर बहुट सुन्दर था - और हमने बहोत चीजे हिंदु धर्म के बारे में सीखी ! मुझे भुत अछा लुगता था, और भुत साफ था।

Today we visited Akshardham Temple in East Delhi on the banks of the Yamuna river, and it was quite impressive! Built and inaugurated only a few years ago (started in 2000, done by 2005), it is a remarkable modern Hindu Temple and visitors center that showcases traditional Indian architecture and explains Hindu beliefs. It was constructed by the BAPS, or Bochasanwasi Akshar Purushottam Swaminarayan, a major organization within the Swaminarayan faith (a version of Hinduism; see BAPS). It sharply contrasts the traditional, historical sites in Delhi as a modern, clean, and crisply managed attraction, and it must have cost a fortune.

For the American visitor it was a sort of Hindu-hybrid of Disneyworld and Temple Square in Salt Lake City, Utah. For instance, we arrived in a large parking lot with neatly marked rows, queued through security lines, checked our bags, cameras, and cell phones (none of those allowed!), and were given a neat brochure outlining the attractions offered. By Indian standards, this place was immaculately clean, complete with restrooms, food stands, and the occasional gift shop.

There was a live animatronic "experience" through 5 or 6 air conditioned theatres as modern as anything you would find in Orlando or L.A. Then a 40 minute IMAX film, followed by another squeaky-clean, air-conditioned indoor boat ride with more live animatronic robots...a la "Pirates of the Caribbean," but newer!

As for the purpose of the complex, it was to showcase the beliefs and values of Hinduism, specifically as held by the Swaminarayan Faith. From our visit and a brief web search, I learned it is a relatively recent sect of Hinduism comprised of the followers of Bhagwan Swaminarayan. He was born to poverty in Uttar Pradesh (North India) in 1781 AD, renounced his home at the age of 11, performed austerities in the Himalayas and traveled throughout India for the next seven years before settling in Gujarat (Western India). He then preached his doctrine of love, peace, purity, and non-violence until his death in 1830. Followers believe that he lives on beyond his mortal form. (see Bhagwan Swaminarayan)

First and foremost I was impressed with the amazing architectural work, all hand carved entirely from Rajasthani pink sandstone and Italian marble, erected without steel or concrete. It is and awesome monument to the traditional beliefs, history, and architecture of Hindu India. But I also got the impression that it represented the new optimism that can be felt in parts of India. I spoke to several people (both visitors and employees) in Hindi as we waited in line or wandered the complex (I am still getting used to the instant openness and surprising sincerity they show when they hear me try to speak to them in their language). While they are committed to their faith and traditions, they seem equally committed to the modern, looking to the future. That is not to say "all is rosy" here, but the fact that such a vibrant display exists in a place so often associated with the ancient, the backward, or the hopelessly quagmired was thought provoking and eye opening!

P.S. - Most of these great pictures were "borrowed" from their website...try as we may absolutely no cameras or cell phones were allowed. In fact, they said they were on heightened alert because radical Muslim groups had threatened at times to attack the site - obviously a tempting target for those who would attack resurgent Hinduism. But we felt perfectly safe there...on the 4th of July!